A Spectacular Piedmontese Dinner at Il Pizzico
by Chevalier Wesley Jefferies
Under clear skies on an unusually warm autumn evening, members and guests of the Bailliage of Greater Washington D.C. of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs were welcomed by Maître Rôtisseur Enzo Livia, the Bailliage’s Vice Conseiller Culinaire, to his restaurant Il Pizzico in the heart of Rockville, Maryland. The evening’s dinner promised a thrilling journey through a baroque carousel of traditional and modern Italian recipes where each course was an intricately designed chariot carrying diners through Chef Livia’s creative and diverse culinary repertoire.
A glass of Trento DOC Metodo Classico Brut Letrari, a lively but surprisingly dry Spumante, greeted members and guests as they trickled. A delectable selection of amuses-bouches and hors d’oeuvres circulated among the mingling crowd including duck confit rillet, smoked salmon crema al mascarpone, truffle mortadella mousse, and rice croquettes.
Dinner began with a formal introduction to his restaurant by Chef Livia who welcomed his fellow Chaîne members and their guests to Il Pizzico. The first course was a sweet pâte à choux based on a foie gras mousseline drizzled with a fig balsamic glaze reduction. A sweet and savory blend of flavors, the pate was akin to a vivid canvas painting in rich velvety hues that showcased Chef Livia’s culinary artistry. Accompanying this dish was a L’Ecru Passito Terre Siciliane I.G.T. Firriato, a sweet wine with an intense golden hue and hints of candied orange peel.
The second course was a sausage filled blonde onion with fonduta, amaretti, and balsamic. This tantalizing interplay of textures and tastes was paired with a Monferrato Rosso Il Baciale Doc by Braida, a Piedmontese wine with hints of spice and berries made from a blend of barbera, pinot noir, sauvignon, and merlot grapes.
The third course, an aged Acquarello risotto with mushrooms and truffle essence, was a vibrant presentation of gastronomic chiaroscuro as the dark earthiness of the mushrooms danced, swirled, and complemented the richness of the truffle in a gentle contrast to the creamy risotto. Paired with a Montebruna Barbera d’Asti DOCG by Braida, with preliminary notes of dark cherry and a nutty finish, this dish was a warm and welcoming flourish that heralded the cozy embrace of autumn.
The fourth course was a veal strip loin with a Madagascar green peppercorn and port wine reduction. This hearty delicacy, an astonishing climax to a mesmerizing dinner, joined forces with a Bricco de L’Uccelone by Braida, a robust and muscular Barbera d’Asti wine, with an intense and complex flavor mosaic of red berries and smoky spice.
The evening’s culinary journey culminated in the dessert course, a Bonet alla Piedmontese, a rich custard made from chocolate, amaretti cookies, caramel, and rum paired with a Brochette d’Acqui by Braida, a sparkling sweet red with distinctive notes of candied pomegranates and tangerine peels.
At the end of the dinner, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Pat Carroll presented Maître Rôtisseur Enzo Livia with a commemorative Chaîne apron to express attendees’ deep gratitude for the marvelous hospitality, delectable dishes, and incredible wines he shared with his fellow Chaîne members and their guests.
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